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by Christine Barnett. London, UK
This season Todd Lynn is propelled by Heart of Darkness, Apocalypse Now and inspired by artist Peter Beard, who opposed beauty and horror in his work. The col lection riffs on safari and colonisation – travelling, becoming native then unravelling under corruption. The collection featured sandy desert beiges and grey khakis in technical fabrics. The collection divided in dark hues and lighter notes. The darker, bolder side featured leather, technicality of the zippers and structured silhouettes. The contrast of styles and colours links to Peter Beard, who opposed beauty and horror in his work. The season is inspired by Apocalypse Now and propelled by Heart of Darkness. The wasitline was accentuated but not in an obvious manner, focusing on draping the fabric against body. Cut and construction have always been present in Todd Lynn’s work and Green jacquards are also derived from James’ colour wash, whilst a weftless cloth purposefully misses its horizontal yarn, creating a degradé of deconstruction (and reconstruction) through tailoring, as well as a new take on tuxedo pants. Todd proposes his version of the safari jacket, in a sculpted silhouette with raglan sleeves.The sensuality of the form projected from silks set against the sharp bone structure of the silhouette. The second part projected an amazon woman with earthy colours and leather belts, stitched to hold the full body and highlight the contrast. Coats unclip at the waist to change silhouette, emphasising movement and trousers cut on a front curve kick back into a flare. Belts are coarsely stitched from ostrich leg hide, in the collection’s colour palette of ochre, red, olive and black, complimented by sandals with lace detailing realised by Christian Louboutin.The instep was high and the girls spotted blonde hair tied back in French braid to keep hair away from the face. The make up was kept bare and girls skin spotted dewy glow. The overall look was classy and chilled. The collection is set to a bespoke soundtrack by The Libertines’ Gary Powell.